Rating: jewelry designs

La Gazette Drouot, Christophe Provot

Whether first drafts or more finished projects, these paper jewels bear witness to the jewelry designers' creative process and their inspiration.

It has a long history, with the earliest known example - attributed to Pisanello - dating back to the Renaissance. However, jewelry design has long remained unknown to the public. After the École des arts joailliers in 2021-2022, the Petit Palais in Paris is redressing this injustice with a brilliant exhibition, on view until July 20. For they are essential to the creation of jewelry, serving as a reference for all the trades involved in its production: model-makers, engravers, chasers, repercers, enamellers, jewelers, setters, threaders and polishers. These extremely precise gouache drawings are also precious in that they are more durable than the jewels themselves, often constituting the only trace of a piece that has since disappeared, been altered or never seen the light of day. As such, they are an important archive for jewellery houses, as well as a source of inspiration for subsequent generations of designers.

Long shunned, jewelry design is now a genuine collector's item.

6,200 €
Atelier de la place Vendôme, years 1932-1940, two jewelry sketchbooks, pencil, gouache and white highlights, 67 sheets total (one reproduced). Tours, January 20 , 2025. Rouillac OVV.